It was once nonetheless darkish as our airplane started its descent into Muscat. Under us, the inky black waters of the Gulf of Oman mirrored the sunshine of the silvery moon and the shadowy outlines of the saw-toothed Jabal Akhdar Mountains encircled the still-sleeping town.
The airport was once quiet, our flight the one one touchdown at the moment of day. Temporarily via immigration, we emerged into the arrivals house of the terminal, the place a uniformed driving force awaited. During the terminal and into the ready automobile, we headed directly out of the city, in opposition to the mountains.
The street wound throughout the outskirts of Muscat, regularly giving option to the rugged vastness of the Omani desolate tract. As we get nearer to the mountains, the panorama turns into much more dramatic, with jagged peaks emerging towards the slowly brightening sky. The air grows cooler as we climb. We go small villages and standard stone homes, clinging to the hillsides.
Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar: A high-altitude haven
It had taken seven years to complete the winding, steep street, that’s taken us from fashionable Muscat as much as the distant Saiq Plateau – a marvelous feat of engineering that has modified the lives of the native villagers, who’d prior to now needed to negotiate the rugged terrain via donkey. On the finish of the street, and the top of our two-hour adventure, lies the lovely Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Lodge.
We’re ushered to our room which, perched at the fringe of a steep canyon 2,095m above sea degree, has fantastic perspectives. Gentle pours into the room, glistening and reflecting off the swimming pool on our deck, and we will see remote-looking clusters of structures dotted alongside the other facet of the canyon. We head out to discover.
The Jabal Al Akhdar Mountains and the Saiq Plateau
House to a number of conventional villages, the Saiq Plateau is a stark distinction to Oman’s arid lowlands. Over centuries the folk right here have tailored to the mountainous surroundings, laboriously setting up strong stone homes, undying terraced farms and an historical irrigation gadget referred to as ‘falaj’, that channels water from mountain springs immediately to their fields. There are round 58 other villages scattered all through those mountains; as soon as inhabited via farmers and their households, however now predominantly deserted. The handful of citizens who stay completely, are living a way of life that’s deeply hooked up to the land they’ve cultivated for generations.
House to a number of conventional villages, the Saiq Plateau is a stark distinction to Oman’s arid lowlands. Over centuries the folk right here have tailored to the mountainous surroundings, laboriously setting up strong stone homes, undying terraced farms and an historical irrigation gadget referred to as ‘falaj’, that channels water from mountain springs immediately to their fields. There are round 58 other villages scattered all through those mountains; as soon as inhabited via farmers and their households, however now predominantly deserted. The handful of citizens who stay completely, are living a way of life that’s deeply hooked up to the land they’ve cultivated for generations.


Omani rose water
In all probability probably the most prized crop regardless that is the Damask rose, identified in the neighborhood as ‘wardh’, which is harvested in March and April and distilled to make world-famous Omani rosewater. Blooming in spring, the roses fill the air with their refined, candy smell. Farmers upward push early to handpick the sophisticated rose petals, whilst their perfume is at its most powerful. The petals are then distilled, the use of conventional clay ovens or copper stills. It takes 3 hours to show 1.5kg of those heady purple blooms into uncooked rosewater. Every batch will nonetheless take an extra 3 to 4 months of cooling, filtration and garage earlier than it turns into the smokiest and darkest rosewater, and will command a value of round 9 Omani Rials (£20) in keeping with 750ml bottle. It’s a time-honoured craft, handed down via generations.
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Never-ending perspectives and Omani structure
Again on the resort, the perspectives are fantastic. Diana’s Level, a glass-sided platform named after the past due Princess of Wales, who had visited within the Eighties, briefly was our favorite sundowner and dinner spot. Looking at the solar dip under the canyon from right here was once unforgettable—even if the view from our room’s terrace was once virtually as excellent.
The hotel’s fortress-like stone partitions, large arched home windows, and intricately carved woodwork mirror Oman’s cultural heritage. Indoors conventional components like tadelakt plasterwork and zellij tiles are integrated and within the gardens, pathways result in a conventional hammam, a sumptuous spa, and secluded spots for stargazing. It took 4 years to construct the hotel – I feel it was once time smartly spent!
Magical Muscat
From the mountains, it was once time to go backtrack to Muscat to discover some extra. Sharp switchbacks and steep inclines gave option to a sea of whitewashed structures and a beach kissed via the waters of the Arabian Sea.
Muscat, clings to the coast, sitting between the Gulf of Oman and the towering Jabal Akhdar Mountains. Surrounded via the glossy megacities of the Gulf, Oman favours custom and the rustic has banned skyscrapers in favour of a low-rise, whitewashed aesthetic. Untouched via mass tourism and with out the skyscraper flashiness and crowds of its UAE neighbours, what units the rustic except its neighbours, is its dedication to authenticity. Oman has resisted the pull of mass tourism, as a substitute focussing on maintaining its tradition whilst embracing modernity.


The Chedi Muscat
The Chedi Muscat was once our house for the following few days – the easiest mixture of a central town location, with beautiful ocean perspectives. Acres of manicured inexperienced lawns, swaying palm timber, meandering pathways, effervescent water options, 3 azure swimming swimming pools, a non-public 370m lengthy seaside, and a few actually superb eating places.
The resort has a mythical recognition within the Heart East. This was once the primary luxurious resort to be in-built Oman, and it has transform the benchmark for Omani hospitality. 20 years later other people nonetheless flock right here from around the globe, to revel in its understated luxurious.


Exploring Muscat
Dragging ourselves clear of the deliciously heat ocean, it was once time to discover the town. We signed up for a non-public excursion with an area information, Hajer Al Muzayni. Hajer works as a information for With Locals and has her finger at the pulse of the town – with the exception of all of the common points of interest, she confirmed us one of the vital hidden gemstones and quirky corners of Muscat that the majority vacationers would possibly pass over. Join a 5-hour Complete Protection Muscat Town Excursion and ask for her via identify!
First prevent was once the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque. Oman’s mosques are a notable exception to the rustic’s ‘no tall structures’ coverage and the mosque, within the center of Muscat, dominates the town’s skyline with its 91m minaret. Quietly enforcing from the outdoor, this fantastic instance of contemporary Islamic structure, was once a present to the country from Sultan Qaboos, to mark his thirtieth yr of reign. The principle prayer corridor is magnificent. The carpet on my own, measuring 70m via 60m, took 600 ladies 4 years to weave. The mosque can accommodate 20,000 worshippers, and with its ornate courtyards, mosaics, prayer halls and fantastically manicured gardens, is among the prettiest points of interest within the town.


Subsequent at the schedule was once the Mutrah corniche. We strolled alongside the 2km prom, preventing for some sturdy, candy cardamom tea, referred to as karak chai. Spiced with cardamom, clove, cinnamon and ginger, and combined with sweetened condensed milk, which offer is an intense creaminess, this tea is tremendous scrumptious!
Proceeding alongside the corniche, we marvelled on the Masjid Al Rasool Al Adham, a blue-domed Shia mosque that dates again to the fifteenth century, earlier than calling in on the 200-year-old Mutrah Souq. Right here we wandered the period of the coated marketplace, from the doorway gate on the Corniche, all of the option to the go out gate within the outdated quarters of the town. Antique furnishings, souvenirs, jewelry, conventional Omani daggers, spices, incense and perfumes, we noticed all of it.
Muscat’s glistening white marble Opera Area was once our remaining port of name. Recognized for its remarkable acoustics, the construction is the town’s hub of arts and tradition, frequently website hosting musical performers from everywhere in the international. Performances are strangely reasonably priced, regardless that you’ll be able to, like us, simply take a snappy guided excursion of the interior.
Tasting Muscat
For a pick-me-up alongside the best way, we known as in at an area scorching spot for some Omani espresso, kahwa. Generally somewhat vulnerable, with hints of rosewater and saffron, kahwa is a well-liked social drink as a result of, because it’s now not sturdy, you’ll be able to sit down with your folks and drink a large number of cups in a row.
By way of the top of our excursion, we’d labored up somewhat an urge for food and have been searching for one thing somewhat extra considerable than espresso. There’s now not a lot boulevard meals in Oman. However what Hajer offered us to was once mishkak, skewers of barbequed meat and seafood. Marinated in garlic, ginger, and spices, then grilled over flaming scorching charcoal, mishkak is eaten both with highly spiced chilli sauce or tamarind sauce. We known as in at one of the most everlasting boulevard meals stalls alongside the seaside house and, taking a seat at one of the most plastic tables and chairs within the automobile park, wolfed the smoky skewers.
No meal is entire with out dessert, so we headed for Al Diwaniya, one of the most perfect puts in Muscat for Halwa, an excessively candy, sticky Omani dessert, cooked right into a thick paste and seasoned with rosewater, saffron, and nuts. This is among the best original Omani cakes and if, like me, you’ve gotten a candy teeth, you’ll like it.
After six hours of sightseeing, visiting native seashores, calling in at galleries and low stores, buying groceries and consuming, we felt we’d had a excellent ‘style’ of the town.
Why Oman will have to be your subsequent luxurious break out
Oman is famend for the nice and cozy welcome it provides guests. Someway the rustic manages to mix a wealthy historical past and robust traditions, with surprising landscapes and a decidedly fashionable outlook. From the ornate mosques of Muscat to the dramatic Jebel Akhdar mountains, and one of the vital maximum surprising seashores at the Arabian Peninsula, Oman is an awesome vacation spot that gives such a lot. As they are saying in Arabic, “jamil jiddan” … very gorgeous.
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