Overview: Character, Stockholm, Sweden – A Luxurious Shuttle Weblog

Our discuss with to Character, situated within the prestigious Östermalm space of Stockholm, started with a pleasant wave from one of the vital team of workers as we have been welcomed during the arched façade of a sublime construction at Torstenssonsgatan 11. From the instant we stepped within, it used to be transparent that this wasn’t going to be simply some other meal, however a culinary adventure completely aligned with the upscale environment. With a number of participants of the group having honed their abilities at Frantzén, considered one of Sweden’s most famed and Michelin-starred eating places, we knew we might be in for an excessively particular enjoy. On this evaluate, I’ll stroll you thru our night so you’ll be able to pass judgement on for your self whether or not Character actually lives as much as its high location in considered one of Stockholm’s maximum unique neighbourhoods.

The meals

Let’s start with the meals. We had the seasonal tasting menu titled ‘Summer time with Monika’. We weren’t given a menu in order that every route got here as a surpise to us, which used to be a pleasant means of doing issues, even if I did in fact request a duplicate (to not destroy the surprises, however only for the needs of this write-up).

Each and every route is described in only a handful of phrases punctuated via ahead slashes, although the advent of the dishes isn’t reasonably so simple as the menu suggests, so we started complaints with “croustade / veal tartar / gribiche”, a captivating and really scrumptious tackle a French vintage, crowned with white kombu.

Drawing its inspiration from South The usa, the “cajun tartelette / candy corn / ranch dressing” used to be a flavourful Cajun tarte full of a gentle and ethereal corn soufflé, drizzled with creamy ranch dressing. This comforting dish used to be no longer overly highly spiced however nonetheless presented daring flavors to thrill the palate.

A showstopper with regards to appears is the “truffle choux / monbazillac / tête de moine” – a mild choux pastry full of wealthy, earthy preserved wintry weather truffle, elegantly crowned with frilly curls of Swiss cheese to offer a shocking visible distinction. A drizzle of Monbazillac, a candy wine from Périgord, provides a luscious sweetness to a dish that used to be as satisfying to the attention because it used to be to the tastebuds.

A French vintage – crispy pommes dauphine – used to be given an inventive twist in reputation of the much-celebrated Swedish midsummer with “pommes dauphine / truffle seaweed / matjessill” – designed to be eaten in a single chunk and served with an earthy truffle seaweed and matjessill (Swedish pickled herring). This distinctive pairing of French ways and Swedish flavours used to be introduced on best of an crowd pleasing, midsummer-inspired floral show.

After this route, we have been invited all the way down to the wine cellar. As a substitute of studying during the wine listing, diners are invited to determine what fits them best possible thru dialog and an exploration in their likes and dislikes.

The cellar may be the place you’ll be able to view the produce getting used within the menu is showcased in a refrigerated show.

While we have been nonetheless within the cellar, we have been introduced with “foie gras / macaron / cloudberry” which captured the essence of French and Swedish culinary cultures via marrying the French delicacy of foie gras with the original, seasonal and sweet-tart allure of Swedish cloudberries.

Again upstairs, “halibut / ajo blanco / sturgeon caviar / elderflower” featured a mild halibut crudo served with a easy and creamy ajo blanco (a conventional Spanish almond and garlic soup) with floral notes from elderflower vinegar and a sumptuous contact of Ossietta sturgeon caviar from Poland. This dish proved to be one of the vital night’s highlights and complemented the halibut fantastically.

The “squid / XO / lumpfish roe / pine” used to be an leading edge noodle dish, that includes mushy squid paired with a wealthy XO sauce and opulent lumpfish roe. The addition of finger lime presented a burst of citrus fantastically counterbalancing the earthiness of the pine.

At Character, they make certain that their scallops are meticulously ready and delivered directly from Hitra, Norway, the place they’re harvested via hand, which matches a protracted strategy to explaining why the “scallop / vanilla / caviar / tiger bread / tarama”, which options 3 of the chef’s favorite components, used to be a powerful luck. Norwegian scallops are regarded as one of the global’s best possible, due to the bloodless waters through which they develop, imparting a singular sweetness and richness which unquestionably got here thru on this dish.

It used to be at this level within the complaints that we loved schnapps or even a full of life rendition of a Swedish tune from the ready team of workers, offering some other nod to Swedish midsummer, a time when Swedes in most cases drink schnapps and beer whilst indulging in crayfish along västerbottenpaj (a västerbotten cheese pie).

The “västerbotten chawanmushi / crayfish / trout roe” is a mild steamed egg custard infused with västerbotten cheese, accompanied via mushy crayfish, sakkiwash trout roe, sea buckthorn oil and really beautiful crown dill. This dish represents a French chef’s inventive interpretation of Swedish traditions in a contemporary, Jap means – wondefully creamy with the wonder of the crayfish balancing fantastically with the sophisticated brininess of the trout roe.

 The “chūtoro / foie gras / kampot pepper / black radish” which adopted had a meltingly mushy texture this is feature of this explicit minimize of bluefin tuna, while the fermented black pepper sauce gave the dish an additional layer of intensity and richness.

The “red meat / chimichurri / shiso tempura” featured probably the most scrumptious and succulent wagyu red meat, complemented via a colourful and zesty chimichurri sauce, crowned with a crispy shiso tempura. This pretty fusion of Latin American and Jap flavours labored extraordinarily smartly and made this a stand-out dish for me.

The “tiramisu / truffle / px / gavotte” is Character’s leading edge take at the vintage tiramisu, enhanced with a French contact. This contemporary interpretation includes a crispy gavotte from Brittany, harking back to a fluffy crêpe, served with a cold-infused espresso ice cream constituted of sustainable Ethiopian espresso beans, in addition to a mascarpone cream with a crunchy praline constituted of almonds and a cookie fall apart. Completing the dish are slivers of summer season truffle and a PX syrup from 1947, which supplies an fragrant, candy and elderly essence, changing the standard wine present in a vintage tiramisu. The endresult is a phenomenal mix of flavours and textures, which is truly announcing one thing since I’m no longer in most cases a large fan of tiramisu!

Earlier than our ultimate route, there used to be a short lived interlude – a singular alternative to interact our senses. We have been introduced with a crimson field full of a number of small bottles containing a secret number of spirits, encouraging us to discover aromas and flavours we may have another way overpassed. Figuring out and distinguishing every refined notice proved to be way more tough than you could believe!

Our remaining route, “cardamom croissant / tarte soufflé chocolate / cannelé,” used to be a lovely amalgamation of candy treats. We have been introduced with 3 small bites; a cardamom croissant representing a lovely fusion of French and Swedish pastry traditions, and a singular twist at the vintage croissant with the fragrant heat of cardamom; a gentle and ethereal chocolate soufflé tart which used to be splendidly wealthy and decadent; and a canelé, a loved vintage from Bordeaux.

The chef

Chef Louis Cespedes brings with him a background that incorporates stints on the prestigious Frantzén and Adam & Albin. He’s Frenchman who has honed his abilities in a few of Sweden’s best kitchens and at Character, he showcases a menu that highlights daring flavours with inventive presentation, reflecting a deep recognize for components and a culinary philosophy is focused round a dedication to creativity and excellence.

Unfortunately Louis used to be away on the time of our discuss with, nevertheless it used to be a excitement to look his group at paintings within the open-plan kitchen that takes centre degree within the eating place, growing memorable eating studies that resonate with visitors lengthy when they go away.

The atmosphere

Character’s internal has been designed via Erik Bratsberg, himself encouraged via mid-century Italian design, who has created a welcoming but subtle eating surroundings. The usage of calming inexperienced hues and herbal wooden no longer simplest supply a way of rest, but additionally by some means evoke a reference to nature and Sweden’s converting seasons. It’s an intimate setting with a full of life buzz of chattering diners and an eclectic combine of recent track, that provides strategy to a relaxing environment that’ feels welcoming and no longer too stuffy.

The fee

The tasting menu is priced at 2,100 SEK (roughly $200 at present alternate charges).
Wine pairings vary from 1,600 SEK to the ‘Goals’ pairing (wines discovered at the best of want lists) for 7,500 SEK.

The general verdict

At Character, we have been handled to an excessively particular eating enjoy. Right here, the menu blended wealthy Nordic traditions with trendy culinary inventions, balancing very good presentation with subtle flavours. As our enjoy drew to a detailed, we have been requested to grin for the digital camera. We concept not anything of it on the time however, to our satisfaction, we have been introduced with a Polaroid as we left— a gorgeous memento to mark a actually memorable night.

Disclosure: Our discuss with used to be backed via Character and our commute used to be kindly supported via Talk over with Stockholm.

Paul Johnson

Paul Johnson is Editor of A Luxurious Shuttle Weblog and has labored within the shuttle trade for greater than 30 years. He’s Winner of the Inventions in Shuttle ‘Absolute best Shuttle Influencer’ Award from WIRED mag. Along with different awards, the weblog has additionally been voted “one of the vital global’s best possible shuttle blogs” and “best possible for luxurious” via The Telegraph.