Evaluation: Cookoovaya, Athens, Greece – A Luxurious Commute Weblog

“Cookoovaya” (κουκουβάγια), which means that “owl” in Greek, is depicted on this eating place’s emblem, which options the eyes and beak of an owl. In Athens‘ historic and colourful Pangrati neighbourhood, the emblem options prominently on an indication outdoor this Michelin Information eating place, with the phrases ‘Smart Delicacies’ beneath. The owl is the sacred chicken of the goddess Athena and an emblem of town of Athens. It’s an emblem of knowledge and information in Greek tradition this is mirrored within the eating place’s culinary excellence and considerate, inventive cooking.

We’re welcomed on arrival at a modern reception house set towards a putting floor-to-ceiling wine refrigerator. This spectacular show is so tall {that a} ladder is wanted to succeed in the uppermost bottles.

The hole web page on Cookovaya’s menu is titled ‘Apheresis’ which is central to the eating place’s culinary philosophy, emphasising conventional ways that extract and spotlight herbal high quality and flavours. There’s a resolution right here to show off Greece’s best elements from each land and sea, utilising each a part of the ones elements, from “nose-to-tail” and “root-to-stalk”.

The meals

We had been invited to choose between the à los angeles carte menu or go for the Chef’s suggestions. We made up our minds at the latter, with the one caveat being that one in all us was once pescatarian. This became out to be a smart decision as we completely loved various dishes we would possibly now not have another way decided on.

We started with the flavourful dorade royale carpaccio which was once accompanied with wild fennel pollen, yuzu kosho and lemon zest. The skinny slices of this fish, additionally konwn as gilt-head bream, had a mild sweetness and a scrumptious, nearly somewhat nutty style.

After which the dishes stored flowing, with the native crimson prawns, scallops, avocado, chilli, lime and coriander being in particular palate-pleasing.

In fact, no Greek meal could be entire and not using a Greek salad and this one didn’t disappoint, now not least for the reason that accompanying feta – which is sourced from the Arkadia area within the central Peloponnese house – had nearly no growing old, much less salt, and a miles softer and silkier texture than standard feta.

Someone aware of Greek delicacies may also be aware of spanakopita (σπανακόπιτα) – Cookoovaya’s scrumptious take at the spinach pie comes entire with wild vegetables, chard, feta and herbs.

For me, the stand-out dish was once the scallops sitting on a purée of smoked eggplant and jalapeño – it was once so succulent and nonetheless makes my mouth water after I reminisce about it!

We additionally loved the octopus on grilled bread with fava and tomatoes…

…and the tarama made with white fish roe, olive oil and lemon juice, served with a crispy phyllo bread this is made with out yeast. 

An aspect dish of spring beaans steamed with grated heirloom tomato, further virgin olive oil, elderly vinegar and contemporary garlic, plus a plate of grilled Ambracian prawns with olive oil, lemon and oregano blossom (from the Ambracian Gulf at the northwest coast of Greece, and recognized for his or her high quality) had been additional examples of ways easy cooking ways can reach outstanding effects.

Our major direction – the catch of the day historically cooked (bianco, bourdeto, soup, poached with basil, bourou-bourou) was once offered to us ahead of being de-boned and served at our desk.

In Greek delicacies, “bourou-bourou” is a standard soup made with quite a lot of greens and now and again pasta or rice. This can be a hearty and comforting dish, generally loved as a starter or a gentle meal. In this instance, the fish (grouper) was once surpisingly ‘meaty’, scrumptious and filling.

By way of this time, we had been in point of fact greater than glad, however it was once nearly insisted that we attempt the bougatsa – a crunchy phyllo, vanilla cream and cinnamon ice cream which was once displayed in all its glory, ahead of being beaten ahead of us.

A pear tarte tatin with butterscotch and vanilla ice cream was once additionally completely loved.

The chef

Chef proprietor Periklis Koskinas, who comes from Corfu, is one in all Greece’s maximum well-travelled cooks, having labored in the United Kingdom, Canaries, Venezuela, USA, Canada and, in fact, Greece. He believes in simplicity in cooking, the use of seasonal and native produce. He opened Cookoovaya in past due 2014 with 5 different esteemed Greek cooks – for the previous 3 years, it’s been beneath his sole command. Greece’s culinary traditions stay on the core of his menu, as do Greek values, regional produce and Greek hospitality.

The atmosphere

On the time of our seek advice from, this air-conditioned eating place had a full of life buzz about it. Tables are nicely spaced and the ceiling top, so it was once now not too noisy in spite of maximum tables being occupied, and a couple of spilling over to dine outdoor. The provider may be very pleasant and attentive with out being bothersome, and the ambience very comfy. Since we had been seated within the entrance portion of the eating place, it wasn’t till I went across the nook to seek advice from the restroom that I noticed there could also be a completely open plan kitchen the place you’ll see all of the culinary magic occur.

The price

Appetisers are within the area of €10 to €25. Mains get started from €30 (for the lamb chops, tzatziki, French fries and wild oregano). There also are two “Smart Tasting Menus”, priced at €75 or €85 in line with particular person. Muffins are generally across the €10 mark.

The overall verdict

Now celebrating its 10th yr, Cookoovaya continues with its dedication to simplicity and knowledge in cooking (therefore the owl once more), turning in dishes that remember the essence of Greek delicacies thru meticulous preparation and appreciate for custom. Diners may additionally understand that even the plates are subtly branded with the phrases “270 levels” and a line that equates to 3 quarters of a circle, representing the full choice of levels that an owl can rotate its head. It’s some of these main points that display the eating place’s consideration to element and underscore its dedication to incorporating knowledge into each facet of the eating revel in.

Disclosure: This publish is subsidized via Cookoovaya.

Paul Johnson

Paul Johnson is Editor of A Luxurious Commute Weblog and has labored within the go back and forth trade for greater than 30 years. He’s Winner of the Inventions in Commute ‘Absolute best Commute Influencer’ Award from WIRED mag. Along with different awards, the weblog has additionally been voted “probably the most international’s perfect go back and forth blogs” and “perfect for luxurious” via The Day-to-day Telegraph.